Gerard DeCoeur—American French Chef
By Martin A. David
Gerard DeCoeur, in spite of his very French name, was born in Brooklyn, New York. His father, a French diplomat, was employed by the United Nations, and his mother taught ballet at a Brooklyn Heights studio. Gerard grew up bilingual and immersed in his parents' culture as well as that of his adopted country.
A Simple Beginning
Gerard's interest in cooking started at an early age when the family's French chef, tired of constantly chasing the child out of the kitchen, began to assign him small kitchen chores. Gerard rose quickly from peeling onions and shelling green peas at the age of ten to preparing simple sauces. When Gerard reached the age of twelve, the cook gave him a chef's knife—which he still owns and treasures—and also spoke to the boy's parents about giving him formal culinary school training. Gerard was in favor of the arrangement, but his parents were not. They did not object to cooking as a profession. They just felt their son was too young to start training. They decided he would have to wait until he graduated from high school. If he were still interested in cooking then, they would reconsider whether he might become an apprentice chef or even go to one of the better chef schools.
A Fervent Desire
Gerard DeCoeur graduated from a private high school, populated mostly with the children of international diplomats, at the age of 15. He ranked second in a graduating class of 22 students, most of them two years older than he. The morning after his graduation, Gerard appeared before his parents in his white chef's apron and carrying his precious knife—sheathed in an elegant, beaded leather case he had made in shop class. Mr. and Mrs. DeCoeur kept their promise and Gerard became a part-time apprentice to Jean-Charles Merviere, the family chef.
The Next Step
At the end of a year, Chef Jean-Charles realized he had taught the young man everything he could. Gerard prepared a formal 6-course dinner for his parents and their dinner guests, the French Ambassador to the United States and his wife. At the end of the dinner, Gerard announced that he wanted to attend a culinary school. He had selected, he told them with great self-assurance, a college in the Midwest that offered a full liberal arts course but was well known for its culinary arts degree program. In that way, he explained, he could receive the well-rounded education he desired while still pursuing his goal of becoming a master chef.
Gerard's college experience was memorable for all concerned as he won prize after prize in the annual student competitions. In his senior year he took first place for specialty desserts, sauces and presentation, and second place in the poultry entrée competition. It was the first time in the school's recent history that one student had taken so many of the top awards.
Learning on the job
The restaurant managers who cruise the top chef schools in search for new talent could not fail to notice Gerard. By the time graduation rolled around, he had 4 solid offers from respected establishments. He smiled politely and told them all "no." Instead, DeCoeur headed for France where his parents still had a small cottage in Provence. Gerard settled in and took a job as chef's assistant in one of the region's many 4-star restaurants. For a year he filled in for any line chef or specialty chef that was out because of illness or injury. He baked, made desserts, prepared special sauces and salads, and inspected the plating and presentation of dishes before they went out to the tables. The establishment served a prestigious clientele, including the President of France, who complimented Gerard for one of his pastries.
Off on his own
After a year in Provence, Gerard felt ready to strike off on his own path. He wanted to return to the United States, where his parents still lived and worked. In spite of all advice against it from mentors, friends and his parents, he wanted to take a bank loan and open his own French restaurant.
It was a sad passing that gave Gerard DeCoeur the start he needed to fulfill his dream. His grandfather on his mother's side, a man who lived in Switzerland and who Gerard had met only a few times, passed away. The man left a large legacy to the family, with a significant share going to each of 4 grandchildren. In addition to a large sum of cash, each of them also got a small memento from the old man's personal treasures. Gerard's was a small, gold pendant in the shape of a dog. The money and the dog became part of his dream.
At the age of 25, Gerard DeCoeur received certification as a master chef. That was also the year he opened the doors of Chien d'Or, or Golden Dog, a truly fine French restaurant.