The Cheese Course: An Elegant Finale for Any Dinner

A Culinary Comeback

The cheese course is a wonderful European tradition that is now making a comeback in entertaining circles and upscale restaurants in the U.S.. Traditionally served between dinner and dessert, the cheese course is a way for home entertainers to extend the dinner hour and provide guests with the opportunity to linger socially over conversation with cheese and fine wine before moving on to serving dessert, which inevitably signals the end of a dinner party. Or, for those who prefer to avoid sweets, it can substitute for dessert entirely, serving as an elegant end to the meal. At culinary schools, new chefs are now being trained in the art of the cheese course so that when they go on to work at fine dining establishments, they can use the cheese course to showcase the array of artisan cheeses that are made both in the U.S. and abroad. The cheese course can also be a way for chef school graduates to introduce new wines to their restaurant patrons.

How to Serve a Cheese Course

One of the best things about the cheese course is that there are no formal rules. Dinner guests may be served with a single slice of cheese on a small plate that’s decorated with a selection of fruits and nuts, accompanied by a glass of dessert wine. Or the table may be served with a wide selection of artisan cheeses on serving platters so that all diners may sample several different cheeses as they continue their dinner conversation.

There are several categories of artisan cheeses that may be considered for the cheese course, and it is best to serve a selection to your guests so they can experience different flavors—or, at the least, find one or two that they truly enjoy! Generally, this means selecting one or two soft, creamy, or spreadable cheeses; a medium consistency cheese; and one or two hard textured cheeses to have an ample variety.

What to Include

Following is a description of a dozen artisan cheeses from around the world to consider in your cheese course selection:

Chevre: A classic choice from France, Chevre is made from goat's milk and has a distinctive creamy flavor. It can range from soft to very hard textures, but the softer Chevres are the best known for inclusion in cheese courses.

Brie: Another soft-ripened, rich and creamy cheese from France, Brie is one of the most popular cheeses to include in a cheese course. Handmade Brie made in France, however, is much richer and riper in flavor than the Brie found in grocery stores in the U.S.

Cheddar: An English cheese that ranges in color from white to a pale yellow, this is the type of cheese your guests will be most familiar with. Orange cheddars are that color only because artificial colors are added to them. For a cheese course, look for a paler hue, and choose a more mature cheddar for a sharper flavor.

Stilton: Also English, Stilton is a blue-mold cheese that has a strong aftertaste and is popular with those who have a developed palate for pungent cheeses. It goes well with port wine.

Fontina: Originally an Italian cheese, Fontina is now also produced in Holland. The handmade Danish variety has a sweeter flavor and a soft texture that goes well with a light dessert wine.

Garrotxa: Surprise your guests with this Italian artisan cheese, a soft goat cheese from Catalonia, Italy, which has a nutty flavor with herbal hints.

Emmental: A classic Swiss cheese, Emmental that is hand made in Switzerland has a rich, sharp flavor that cannot be captured by its commercially manufactured imitators.

Graddost: This Swedish cheese is mild and very creamy and goes well with fruit.

Turunmaa: Very similar to Havarti, this Finnish cheese goes well with fruit and bread, and has a semi-soft texture.

Roquefort: Made from sheep's milk, Roquefort cheese has touches of blue from the mold that makes it blue cheese and comes from a region along the border between Spain and France. It has a peppery, pungent flavor.

Jermi Tortes: To really impress your guests, try this German treat: handmade layers of cheese and other ingredients such as salmon, herbs or nuts.

Gouda: Dutch Gouda has a sweet and nutty flavor and is universally popular.

Smart Cheese Shopping

When purchasing cheeses and preparing for your dinner party, the following culinary school secrets will help you serve the best cheese course possible:

• Always taste the cheese at the cheese counter before making a purchase. A reputable merchant will usually offer you a taste, and will never turn you down if you request a taste. Even if you have previously served a particular type of cheese, you should taste it again because like wine, cheeses come in different "vintages" and each batch may taste considerably different depending on who produces it, and under what circumstances it is made.
• Like fruits, cheeses continue to ripen over time. And like any food, they will go bad if you don’t preserve them properly. Refrigerate your cheeses when you get home to slow the ripening process. But when you are ready to serve them, allow the cheeses to return to room temperature before presenting them to your guests—the flavors are truest and richest at room temperature.
• It’s very American to serve "cheese and crackers," but for a cheese course, skip the crackers and serve a terrific loaf of bread with the cheese instead. It's less messy for your guests, and the taste of a fresh loaf complements the rich tones of cheese much better than crackers.

About the Author:

Alison Overholt is a freelance writer based in New York. She holds a degree in government, with honors, from Harvard University, and writes frequently about business, travel, and lifestyle subjects for national magazines and other publications.

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